venerdì 20 aprile 2012

Letter from Rome: Rediscovering Amelia Rosselli

A few weeks ago, I found myself wandering through an elegant Roman neighborhood. Small villas with wrought iron balconies overlooking lush gardens of palms and jasmine tucked behind high walls; Moorish arabesques of gold mosaic glinting from imposing facades. Purely residential, undisturbed by traffic or commerce, there was not a shop, café, or even a newspaper stand, and at that hour of the mid afternoon, not a soul about– only a cat or two, startled by my intrusion. Turning a corner, to my surprise I came upon a trestle table piled with books set up along the sidewalk, rather incongruous in such a classy neighborhood. The vendor looked like an outsider too, with his dirty jeans and pierced nose. He crouched in the shade of an entryway watching me as I thumbed through the yellowing pages of his books. They were mostly legal tomes, political philosophy, biographies of statesmen, illustrated with maps of countries whose names have changed, whose borders have been erased, all discarded from some judge’s library, perhaps from one of the ritzy homes in the vicinity. Someone had moved, or died, or simply needed space.

Then among those dull, worn covers, I noticed a slick grey jacket encasing a slim volume –that I instantly recognized, having once, years ago, owned a copy which I later gave away. It was Amelia Rosselli’s third, groundbreaking volume of poetry, Documento, published in 1976. This book, more than her earlier collections Variazioni Belliche and Serie  Ospedaliera introduced her work to a greater, admiring reading public, beyond the  writers, feminists, and the politically engaged who had already discovered her. One critic labeled it “A visceral cry uttered with precision.” Rosselli herself said of the collection that she had tried to address universal concerns beyond problems of the personal. The title itself is intriguing: “Documento” means of course, document, a documentation, a record of a true experience, and in daily usage, it also means: identity papers. This book, which aimed to go beyond the personal, was for her an act of self- identification. “I am not what I appear,” she wrote.  Those words resonated for many women in the late 60s and early 70s, when poetry in Italy, and indeed the entire literary and cultural establishment, seemed preponderantly male. Amelia Rosselli’s voice jarred; her grammar scandalized. Those who found her poems hard going protested her lack of “sense”, her weird imagery, her fragmented syntax, and the undercurrents of violence and excruciating pain bespeaking mental illness churning beneath the surface of her work.

             When Rosselli first published her startling poems, Phyllis Chester had not yet published Women and Madness, a frightening enquiry into why there are so many women in mental hospitals; into why some women’s normal reaction to a lifetime of stress as second-class citizens should be defined as pathological. Nor had Gilbert and Gubar published their seminal The Madwoman in the Attic connecting the language of madness with the narratives of female rebellion. Rosselli would, perhaps, have recognized herself in those pages in which myths of mental illness are challenged. 

            Amelia Rosselli committed suicide in Feburary 1996, throwing herself from the window of her tiny flat in the center of Rome, after a period of grave depression. Long before, she had been diagnosed with paranoid schizophrenia, a pronouncement she never accepted. She was also diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease at the age of thirty-nine and may have suffered severe nerve damage as the aftermath of meningitis. Her fragility of nerves, treated twice with electroshock therapy, was, however, also the product of great traumas in her childhood. Her father was the celebrated anti-Fascist leader Carlo Rosselli, who was assassinated along with his brother Nello by order from Mussolini in 1937 when she was seven years old. Jewish, anti-fascist, stateless and in perennial exile, she grew up polyglot and intensely aware of the social- political reality of her times. She lived for a while in the United States and England, studying music which deeply influenced her use of language: “I have never separated the two disciplines,” she once wrote of poetry and music, “considering the syllable not only as an orthographic nexus, but as a sound – or the sentence not only as a grammatical construct, but as a system.”

Hers is a poetry of disarrangement, to use a term of Tony Hoagland’s, for it attempts to disarrange the reader’s consciousness, which she achieves by treating words as sounds, colors, impressions, combined to create textures, atmospheres, and mosaics of subliminal meaning  Her poems and prose writings are like magnetic clouds of whirling bits of metaphor and sound, suspended by the centrifugal force of an obsessive emotion.

            Until recently her work was known only to critics, connoisseurs and the cultural elite, rarely anthologized - perhaps because her language is so singular and difficult. Critic Alessandro Poleri has described it as “Pre-logical, primitive, shamanic.” But year by year, her reputation in Italy and abroad, has grown, and continues to grow. New publications keep appearing: notebooks and previously unpublished works, critical appreciations and biographical essays, Ph.D. theses, translations, and it seems, a forthcoming volume of her collected works is to be published by the prestigious Meridiani imprint of Mondadori, a sign that a writer has been welcomed into the canon of the greats.  Today she is recognized as a great modernist poet akin to Montale, Campana, Rimbaud, TS Eliot, Char, Akmatova, and Plath, with whom she strongly identified. The date of her suicide, Feb.11th 1996, may have been intended to underline her feelings of kinship with Plath, whose work she had translated for the Meridiani series.

            The book in my hands is a perfectly clean first edition. No name scribbled inside the cover, no dog-eared pages to mark a favorite poem, nothing underlined. It looks as if it has rarely been opened, much less read; but the pages are stained by damp and give off a musty smell. It has probably been stored in a box in some dark cellar for years.  In its own way, this book is a little piece of my own story in this country where I came to live in 1978, and eke out a living as a literary translator. I was introduced to Rosselli’s poetry by her cousin, whom I knew briefly –but I never had the opportunity to meet the poet herself. Years and years ago, moving house in Rome, I sent my copy of Documento to a poet friend, who twenty years later, published a volume of translations of Rosselli’s work. In some small way I was a link in a chain - voices connecting to voices, words connecting to words to pass along a thread of experience.

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The exquisite villas of this neighborhood dating from the twenties testify to the rise of Fascism in this country, the  oppressive, patriarchal system that destroyed Amelia Rosselli’s childhood happiness and marked her for life. The surrounding walls are ornate and silent, like the walls of tombs. No sign of the life unfolding within them flickers from the windows -- all is hidden behind a façade of order and reserve. Against all this, Rosselli smashed mirrors of complacency –inviting her readers to pick up the shards and see a sliver of their own pain and their own rebellion reflected in each jagged piece.



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giovedì 19 aprile 2012

The Ultimate Artichoke Recipe: Hearth-Roasted Artichokes

From April till mid May comes the peak of  artichoke season in Rome, giving us one last glorious feast  of this noble vegetable with its bitter, pungent taste of spring, its budding promise of summer bloom  which we devour with such gusto and not one iota of guilt.

So many places I love in Italy have their artichoke specialties    from the  bronze sunflower- like mandala of the  deep fried  carciofo  alla giudea – a traditional Roman delight found  in the famous restaurants of Rome’s ghetto, to the rustic,  filling artichoke and fava soups served at the  Pensione Isolabella  on the island  of Ventotene  on cold  stormy nights, when high seas spatter  the windows.     Or  the tiny pickled hearts of  the carciofi tardivi sometimes called  figli,  hardly bigger than a quail’s egg, blanched in vinegar,  seasoned with fennel, pepper, and preserved  in olive  oil  to be eaten as an accompaniment to  unsalted Tuscan  bread,   Or the chic, slimming salad of  thinly sliced raw artichokes and flakes of parmesan cheese, dressed with lemon and olive oil, which  they  used to serve years ago, at one of my favorite restaurants in  Rome Da Luigi    just around the corner from where I used to live near the Chiesa Nuova.

In my thirty years in Rome, I  have accumulated dozens of artichoke recipes for  spaghetti, crepes,  soups, garnishes,  involtini, quiches, stews,  torte rustiche, and phyllo dough concoctions,  but it was only recently that I happened upon what  I consider the  ultimate artichoke recipe:  the hearth-roasted artichoke, as suggested by hearth and wood oven expert, William Rubel, in his extraordinary cookbook dedicated to hearth cooking,  The Magic of Fire

The satisfaction given by cooking on an open hearth is something elemental and primeval, I suppose, stirring childhood memories of cook outs and campfires, fantasies of survival, of  living in a cabin hidden in the woods, of which Gaston Bachelard speaks so enticingly in his philosophical study of houses and habitation,  The Poetics of Space. If such reveries tickle your imagination,  Rubel’s  book, of which I will offer a fuller review on a later blog, will be perfect bedtime reading.   Here amid recipes of complex baking, roasting, and stewing techniques for the open hearth  used by our ancestors in the olden days, I came upon a page of suggestions for hearth-roasting a variety of vegetables, including artichokes.

The procedure is a simple one.  Get a fire roaring and let it burn down to a pile of embers, and while the flames are crackling,  prepare your artichokes for roasting.   First, wash the artichokes well, remove the stem,  and nip off the tip. With a knife, dig out any fluff from the core, but leave the outer leaves on.  Then beat the artichoke against a hard surface,  such as   a marble table top,  or kitchen counter   to flatten it a bit and open up the leaves.  Into the heart and in between the outer layer of leaves,  pack fresh herbs (tarragon, parsley, chives, fresh fennel, dill, fresh thyme, mint or mentuccia, the wild mint growing everywhere along country lanes in Italy, or santoreggia,  a wild herb that favors dry walls), slip in finely chopped garlic and capers, and then dribble olive oil in the heart and in between the leaves.  Using your fire thongs, nestle each artichoke right on the embers, and cocoon each artichoke with red hot embers.  The outer leaves will scorch, but the heart will cook slowly, and in roughly 20 -30 minutes, they’re done. Cooking time depends on the heat and quantity of embers.    Remove the artichokes, dust off the ashes, peel away the charred outer leaves, and voilà,   a unique  gastronomic experience.  The artichoke, slightly al dente, retains its characteristic pungent flavor  with the addition of a delicious smoky taste mingled with the aroma of  fresh herbs.  A wonderful accompaniment to grilled lamb.

More on Artichokes

Artichokes are renowned in Italy for their curative powers, especially the leaves, which French researcher Jean Valnet cites in his Cura delle Malattie con Ortaggi,  Frutta, e Cereali  as having  a beneficial effect on bile production, liver health, and cholesterol.  The many varieties of artichokes are akin to cardoons, and common thistles,  such as milk thistle, known  cardo mariano,  which, according to Mrs. M. Grieve’s  Modern Herbal  (1931) once upon time was commonly cultivated in the kitchen gardens of England as a salad plant. Artichokes seem to be on people’s minds lately.  Last week the authoritative VII International Symposium on the Artichoke, Cardoon, and their Wild Relatives   (The title itself strikes me as a poem) convened at the Università degli Studi della Tuscia )  http://www.enea.it/it/enea_informa/events/simposio-carciofo/viii-international-symposium-on-artichoke-cardoon-and-their-wild-relatives  ,  a recent blog by Mary Jane Cryan celebrates the Artichoke Festival of Ladispoli, providing interesting anecdotes about the history of this favorite vegetable, http://50yearsinitaly.blogspot.it/  while Sergio Baldassare offers a tutorial on Spaghetti ai Carciofi  on You Tube at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EnxZDgbips&feature=relmfu